Sunday 3 February 2008

Melbourne


We have now reached our destination: Melbourne. After a very pleasant 12 hours train journey we arrived in Southern Cross station from where we took the train to Upwey, the home of Patricia and Leslie.

This visit was really the purpose of our coming to Australia with both of them being such wonderful people. Patricia, compassionate, Leslie, intuitive. This short stay has been the culmination of a journey where we have learnt much about ourselves and will send us home full of gratitude.

Saturday 2 February 2008

Cycling, weather, food, budget and why do we do it?

Cycling

The tandem has been virtually trouble free after very able man from Margaret river's cycle shop straightened the gears damaged on the flight. We were not prepared though for the huge distances needing to be covered to reach food and water, sometimes over 130km.

The other obstacles have been head wind, heat and hills. The roads have been narrow, mainly without a lot of traffic but the road trains can be worrying (to say the least!) as they travel at over 100km/hour and couldn't always swerve around us when overtaking. Flies in areas where there is cattle can be a real nuisance (understatement!). We can cruise at 25-35km/hour and they can't keep up with us, but when we come to a hill and I have to pull hard on the handlebars, they seem to delight in crawling all over my face, drinking out of my eyes and crawling up my nose. Nicole says it is good for my character!

Weather
The wind near the coast changes direction as the land warms up, getting strong by mid-morning on a hot day and reverses in the evening. It somehow always seemed a head wind! The weather is hugely variable and unpredictable. It can be blowing of the desert one day, with a temperature of 40+ C and off the sea the next day, mid 20's C. We had a little rain initially and one thunderstorm near Norseman, otherwise, not a drop until we arrived in Melbourne. The countryside has been absolutely parched. The creeks dried, pastureland brown, campsites rock hard and dusty (we will have to buy new tent pegs). Now in Victoria, it is green again and climate much coolerand very pleasant.


Food


In urban areas, delicious quiches made of combination of organic vegetables and fruits we don't have at home. Enjoyed these enormously. However, often we have had to eat in petrol stations whichg only offer hot pies and chips (with ketchup). John found it extremely hard (in some cases refused) to eat out of paper bags and drink out of bottles! If we are riding hard we do need to replenish the calories we burn so required several main meals and 6-8 litres of water a day.




Budget and accommodation
Our daily budget for accommodation and food is $70 (approx 30 pounds) a day. In Western australia, food prices is a lttle more expensive than at home, camp sites $20- $25 (8-10 pounds). We survived by camping wild in the bush, sometimes wecamped in recreation fields and use their toilets, sometimes even showers. We have also a budget for one-off expenses such as trips out, presents and spoiling ourselves.


Why do we do it?

You may well ask why we do it, many people have asked us and there have been occasions on that trip when we have seriously asked ourselves ! Some rides have been very hot and hard! We have had 2 months in wonderful warmth, seen a huge variety of landscapes, met and talked to interesting people. We have been lucky enough to stay with people we have met on the road and tried to learn about this very varied country and the people who live here. Travelling by tandem is cheap: it enables us to engage with the countryside and people in a way that would not be possible on public transport and it would not be within our means to hire transport or foot the fuel bills for the 2,300km we have travelled.


We are able to talk as we ride, there have been many shared moments, camping on the beach,listening to the sea, watching the sunset after a hard day's ride. All our journeys are journeys of self discovery, and this one has been no exception. It has been the hardest ride to date but there has been much that will stay with us.



John really liked:
The wonderful eucalypt forests. They have made as big an impression as did the South American rain forest.

John did not like:
Eating warmed up pies and chips in petrol stations out of paper bags.

Nicole really liked:
Australian people (most were happy, relaxed, friendly, helpful and generous). The sun, the Ocean, the white sand. The desert, the kangaroos, the emus and the lovely, sometimes strange, often seemingly insignificant flowers.

Nicole did not like:
Mrs Mac's pies, the horrible people who woke us up in the middle of the night at Parry's beach with their headlights and growling dog, John's grumpy moments, the absence of Aborigines on our travels.


Our stay in Adelaide






Governor Hindmarsh in 1836 read the proclamation of South Australia at Discovery Bay in what is now Glenelg which is now a suburb of Adelaide (we subsequently abandonned the tandem and took the early bus-tram to there to go swimming with the dolphins!)

(We took this picture of Robert Burns' statue especially for our friends at the Cale)

The early Europeans colonists built with stone, pride and plenty of style. the dignified city centre buildings are encircled by green parklands. Leafy Adelaide is a cosmopolitan and cultural city bordered by the enchanted hills of the Mount Lofty Ranges and the long sandy beaches of the Gulf St. Vincent.


We were able to cycle from our campsite right to the city centre, where we found our way to the wonderful Botanical Gardens. there we learnt that there was more than the eucalyptus and accacias: the primeval conifers, straight from the age of the dinosaurs, the bottle tree that copes with drought by shedding its leaves and then living on the water stored in its bottle shaped trunk. So many of the indigenous species here have evolved diferent means of surviving the drought. The rain fall interestingly is roughly the same as London's but most of it fall in the 4 winter months May- August, some times within only a few days! We went on one of the free conducted tours of the 40 acres Botanical Gardens. I was intoxicated by the variety, scale and sheer profusion of Australia's indigenous flora. Only in the rainforest had I seen anything to match it. Nicole loved the imposing avenue of the Moreton Bay fig trees, the lotus flowers and the magnificent Bunyan Pines.

Our next day focused on the migration museum with told the story of the migrants who came from all over the world to make South Australia their home. It also told the story of the Aborigenes, the loss of their land and way of life, They often didn't survive the introduction of European diseases for which they had no natural resistance. This is a problem that has only recently started to be addressed.