Cabo Sardão

After an awful day looking for camping spot in the hot sun  (unsuccessful) and nearly escaping death a few times on a horrid fast road we had breakfast on a beautiful rocky promontory 

By Cabi Sardão's lighthouse (it mistakingly faces land rather than the sea!)

And we arrived in Zambujeira Do Mar (a surfer's paradise) where we found a quiet and shady camping. Now ready to stay put for a few days, explore the rocky cliffs and the local fishing little port. 

Early dip

Early call from John to cycle to beach. Absolutely beautiful! The whole beach to ourselves: a dip, yoga and breakfast by the Atlantic shore..

This why we pedal hard and sweat countless kms..

Ilha Do Pessegueiro

After a lovely quiet night amongst eucalyptus we saw snake marks on the path near tent..glad I didn't meet him!

Cycling down the coast with a fresh breeze, bliss! Too many people, but pretty coves, lovely clear sea and we saw this beautiful white flower again

Comporta

Reached Comporta by the Atlantic coast. Made a detour by a small interesting village with an extended system of pontoons on stilts

Tourada

On entering Alcácer we saw a poster for a bull fight the following night. We thought it would be a novel way to celebrate John's 70th birthday!

Consequently, we cycled to the bull ring in good time (10pm!) and eventually found our seats in the gallery. 

The bull ring is very reminiscent of a Roman amphitheatre without the stage. Just a ring, like a circus.

The programme opened with a superb display of dressage by very elegantly dressed women.

Then the introduction of the 3 calvaleiros (dashing horsemen dressed in 18th century finery with a plumed tricorn hat).

Each calvaleiro was assisted by 3 matadors (on foot) who provoked the bull. The bull charges the calvaleiro who with superb horsemanship gallops within inches of the bull's horns and plants bandarillas into the bull's neck.

The next phase was the pega (really the suicide squad!), 8 forcados facing the bull bare handed. They were tossed into the air and even trampled on!

They were whirled around holding his tail and eventually overwhelmed the weakened bull.

Lastly, cows were sent into the ring to lure the bull out.

We made for home at 1.00 am (the show was still in full swing!) and cycled back to our tent. What a birthday!

The bull is humanely put down after the event.

Bull fighting is on the wane. We did not enjoy seeing the bull tormented but reflected if this was a more humane death than transportation for many miles in a cattle truck to face the trauma of the abattoir.

Alcácer do Sal

Arrived in the charming town of Alcácer early enough to stroll through the main street which was decorated with paper bunting. They must have known it was John's birthday the following day!

Met Rui, a most helpful guide at the tourist office who told us much about the region, advised us on our cycle route and took us to visit the 2 beautiful salt galleons "Amendoeira 1950" and "Pinto Luisa 1910" moored on the Sado river.

We have decided to stay here a few days, people are so friendly, the atmosphere so genuine and relaxed and the campsite unpretentious, grassy and clean

Leaving Évora

We left Évora in the early evening, after the heat if the day and found a good camping spot by the side if the road, sheltered by eucalyptus. It would have been perfect if we hadn't seen smoke in the distance..dry fields and heat obviously spell danger! We kept checking through the night if we could smell smoke or see a glow, but morning arrived and all was well.

Very early morning start, cool cycling through cork plantations, small dry flowers, and even saw snails (where do they get their moisture from?)