Champasak

Left Pakse on Saturday morning, with our tummies still queasy but reminding ourselves we only had 35 km to Champasak. Cycling past the big market, catching a glimpse of a dead pig amongst crowded passengers on a sawngthaew (small bus) didn't help the weak tummy situation... However, after an hour or so, helped by a tail wind (we couldn't believe our luck!) we eventually found a turning which looked like it could be the road to the ferry to Champasak (nothing written in English of course).It was a peaceful road and we arrived in a village where we were directed to the "ferry for motorcycles" i.e. 2 canoes lashed together to form a kind of catamaran. The more elaborate "ferry for lorries and cars" was made of 3 boats with a wooden platform joining them together.At each end of the wooden platform was a hinged tail board raised and lowered with blocks and tackle. After an exciting (and wobbly) ride across the Mekong, we landed on a walkway across several boats and after a hard push up a wooden walkway up a sandy bank, arrived in a quiet village (in fact it was in the middle of a temple!). It was absolutely lovely.

We have been here for 2 days, savouring the peace and watching local people going about their daily business.

This morning, got up early and after a cup of Lao coffee set off on the tandem to the Angkor temple at Vat Phou about 8km away. When we arrived, we were the only people there. It was stunning. It has recently (2001) been given world heritage status and is one of the most peaceful, unspoilt and majestic site we have ever visited. it is build on a natural terrace of the Phou Kao mountain where freshwater spring gushes out of rock is laid out on a linear plan and designed to be approached from the east to impressworshippers with the sanctity of the place. It stretches over 1400 m on an east west axis, stepping up the mountain side and one of the first building we saw is the Nandi Pavillion ( a building for the vehicle of the god Shiva called Nandi or bull), one of the first buildings to be consolidated and the work has only just started in partnership with the Italian Government, organised by UNESCO.Consolidation is necessary. Many of the ruins are unstable and have had temporary wooden props to prevent any further collapse. They are doing a wonderful job. Vat Phou has been developed over a long period with the earliest remains dating from 7th century AD, but major rebuilt in 11th/12th century and maintained by rulers of Angkor to the 14th century. It was converted from Hinduism to Buddhism in the 13th century and still retains local religious function today: every year a festival is celebrated in February and I am sure the village is less than peaceful then!

For us it will be an early night (with more Lao folk music from across the road) and an early start across the ferry again and then southwards.