Thursday 1 January 2009

Kiet Ngong and the elephants




We went to bed early... only to hear motorbikes after motorbikes congregating near our door... There must have been one hundred! Where had they come from? We found out it was the guesthouse owner's daughter's birthday. Much merriment went on for a good part of the night... In the morning we were just about to leave our friendly Kamphoui guesthouse when John met an American who was congratulating the owner about his daughter's birthday and generally chatting and joking in LAO! John was aghast with admiration at his linguistic skills. Apparently he had only come to Laos for the past 8 years one month at a time and he could speak fluently! This inspired on the spot John and he said he would learn French from now on (3 days later nothing remarkable has happened yet...)
We arrived in Kiet Ngong by 2 o'clock on Monday afternoon. The last 10km were uphill and on a dirt road so we were hot and dusty when we got there. After making enquiries about home stays, we were taken to the home of Mr Lai (who helps collect food for the elephants - they eat around 300kg of fodder a day) and Mrs Tem, a charming couple in their mid forties. Our Lao improved in leaps and bounds as Mrs Tem spoke no English and Mr Lai's repertoire was about as extensive as ours! We now know how to say elephant (sang), son (duksai) daughter(duksau) difficult (nia) and delicious(sep). However, the intonation is another matter... The washing arrangements were very primitive and we didn't manage to wash much of the dust away!
The next morning was a dream: up at 6, breakfast (rice) at 7 and off with Boit Hong (elephant) and Boy (mahout) up the path to the flat summit of Phou Asa, named after a 19th century hero-monk who fought against the Siamese. The ride was absolutely magical, lumbering along the path surrounded by semi tropical forest, the air still fresh after the night's rain and swarming with butterflies.
We are now in Don Khong an island in the middle of the Mekong. Too much to say and a poor internet connection but all is very well and we'll catch up when we are back near civilisation...

1 comment:

  1. Hallo dear Nicole (and John of course)
    Do you remember me, 1989 on the Isle and the new house near the camper? These are now 20 years ago exactly... I see that you seem to be in a very interesting time of your life :-)
    As to me I got your blog's address from Antoinette who is at last an "Internnaut" too and I want to whish you a very good new year with interesting new adventures. I'll follow you here and then since I know where to find you. And tell me: Do you know a Christophe Brun, born in May 1960, a colleague and neighbour of mine with parents in Valais...
    Amyway have a very good time. AmitiƩs from Marianne and much success to John learning french (good 2009 decision!)

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